In farming it’s good practise to make ‘beetle banks’ between fields which help harbour natural predators for the crops; these banks help restore some of the habitat for beetles that hedges would have provided when field sizes were smaller and before many hedges were grubbed out. The banks are simply a tussocky ridge, left undisturbed. In a garden you may have something similar, perhaps a grassy bank above or below a mown lawn. If the grass is allowed to grown long, this will provide plenty of invertebrate cover. Even mown slopes will often have some patches in them which might be used by certain mining bees such as the ivy bee to nest in. Records from the UK Glow Worm Survey indicate you are more likely to see glow worms on north and west-facing slopes compared to other aspects.

Rocky or sparsely planted banks which face the sun are good places to spot basking butterflies and lizards (including the legless lizard, the slow-worm) on a sunny day in spring or summer. Other pollinating insects will be attracted if plants such as bird’s foot trefoil (Lotus corniculatus) and clover are planted. Try planting a

Perennials are plants that live for multiple years. They come in all shapes and sizes and fill our gardens with colourful flowers and ornamental foliage. Many are hardy and can survive outdoors all year round, while less hardy types need protection over winter. The term herbaceous perennial is used to describe long-lived plants without a permanent woody structure (they die back to ground level each autumn), distinguishing them from trees, shrubs and sub-shrubs.

Take a look at our RHS Guide on steep banks and slopes for more planting ideas.

Steep banks and slopes

Steep banks and slopes

The year-round damp nature of a ditch means it is an ideal spot for frogs, toads and newts. Outside of the breeding season amphibians can spend much of their time on land, seeking hunting opportunities among humid vegetation. With porous skin, prone to desiccation, they can’t afford to dry out. Slugs, snails and many other invertebrates such as ground and rove beetles, millipedes, woodlice and springtails abound in damp leaf litter and among foliage.

Add shade-tolerant plants if your ditch is unplanted. Gravity-defying ferns such as harts tongue fern (Asplenium scolopendium) can be tucked into the steep sides of a ditch. Other plants to try include lady’s smock (Cardamine pratense), saxifrage and Tellima grandiflora.

Unless your ditch is needed to be kept clear to channel water away, pile up some dead logs in the bottom to create even more habitat. Very steep-sided ditches can trap hedgehogs so be sure to install a sloping ramp out of a plank of wood covered in chickenwire or a series of logs.

If your garden lacks banks or ditches, why not try building one. In fact, if you are excavating soil to make a ditch, simply pile it up on one side of the ditch to create a combined ditch and bank in one go! As most gardeners know well, the shorter the distance you have to move soil, the better.

There is no ‘perfect’ size for such a feature but to be sure of creating novel conditions (and hence a new micro-habitat) it makes sense to make your ditch or bank at least 30cm (1ft) deep or tall. On lighter soils, hand digging with a spade is hard work but effective. Heavier soils and bigger projects may require you to hire a mini-digger (with operator) but try not to work on heavy (clay) soils when they are wet as this will cause them to compact. Check first if there are any underground service pipes that you might need to avoid if digging in that area.

Banks and ditches are often linear features, but they don’t need to be. If you are on an exposed, windy site, create a crescent-shaped bank facing away from the prevailing wind to maximise shelter on the inner slope. And if you’re concerned about crossing a ditch to get to another part of the garden, build a bridge or two out of railway sleepers or similar.