Sheep’s sorrel
A favourite of foragers and a fantastic plant for wildlife, sheep’s sorrel makes a great addition to species-rich lawns and wildflower meadows. However, its spreading roots and tendency to self-seed can make it unwelcome in some parts of the garden.
Quick facts
- Rumex acetosella is the botanical name for sheep’s sorrel
- It is a UK native wildflower found on heathland, grassland, roadsides and sand dunes
- Over 50 species of insect feed on sheep’s sorrel, including beetles, true bugs, flies, butterflies and moths
- Sheep’s sorrel can spread through borders and lawns, especially on dry, sandy, acid soil
- If you need to control sheep’s sorrel, non-chemical methods are effective
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What does sheep’s sorrel look like?
Sheep’s sorrel is a small, tufted
Is sheep’s sorrel a weed?
Sheep’s sorrel is a UK native wildflower, found throughout the country on heathland, grassland, roadsides, sand dunes and shingle. It is a fantastic plant for wildlife, with the Biological Records Centre listing over 50 species of insect that use it as a food plant. These include beetles, true bugs, flies, butterflies and numerous moths. Sheep’s sorrel seeds are also eaten by ground-feeding birds such as chaffinches and thrushes.
Frequently asked questions about controlling sheep’s sorrel
How invasive is sheep’s sorrel?
Sheep’s sorrel produces shallow, spreading roots that grow into surrounding soil and can send up new shoots along their length. It can regrow from small sections of root, so gardeners may inadvertently spread sheep’s sorrel by chopping roots up when digging or by moving soil around their gardens. Plants also produce large amounts of seed if allowed to flower. Many will drop to the ground and germinate near the parent plant, but some may be carried further away by the wind.
The good news is that it is easy to deadhead plants to prevent them setting seed. And, while the creeping roots can be difficult to completely remove from the soil, requiring patience and persistence, prompt removal of unwanted seedlings stops plants establishing in the wrong place.
Do I need to get rid of sheep’s sorrel?
No – allowing sheep’s sorrel to grow in a species-rich lawn, wildlife corner or less-cultivated area is a great way to attract wildlife and boost the biodiversity of your garden.
And, as it supports a variety of wildlife, and has attractive flowers and seedheads, sheep’s sorrel is a great addition to wildflower meadows on dry, sandy or acidic soil. It grows well alongside oxeye daisies (Leucanthemum vulgare), bird vetch (Vicia cracca), betony (Betonica officinalis) and cornflowers (Centaurea cyanus) and is commonly sold by wildflower suppliers.
What is the easiest way to kill sheep’s sorrel?
If you have sheep’s sorrel growing where it is not wanted, there are several ways to remove it:
- Hoe off seedlings in early spring – hoe on a warm, dry or windy day, so exposed roots dry out quickly. Hoeing minimises soil disturbance, preserving soil health.
- Fork out established plants – use a hand fork to carefully lift the shallow, creeping roots from the soil, following each one to get as much root out as possible. As the roots are fragile and plants can regenerate from small sections, keep an eye out for regrowth and repeat as necessary. Within a lawn, re-seed any resulting bare patches.
- Prevent seeding – control the spread of sheep’s sorrel by deadheading plants you wish to keep, or by removing plants before they set seed.
- Discourage growth – if you have sheep’s sorrel growing among border plants that need feeding, try to avoid using acidifying nitrogen fertilisers such as sulphate of ammonia, as these lower soil pH and create the perfect conditions for sheep’s sorrel to thrive. Instead opt for poultry manure pellets as they won’t lower the pH of your soil.
- Lime to reduce acidity – this will discourage sheep's sorrel and help to limit its spread. See our page on lime and liming.
- Smother plants – cover with a layer of compostable material, such as cardboard, and then a layer about 20cm (8in) thick of organic matter, such as bark or wood chips. Alternatively, use a heavy grade biodegradable mulch matting. This will block light and prevent growth, causing the root system to die. Keep soil covered for a few years, topping up the mulch layer if necessary, to ensure this method is effective.
Should I use a weedkiller?
No – as non-chemical control methods are effective, even if time-consuming, there is no need to use weedkillers.
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