Hedge bindweed (Calystegia sepium) stems can grow 3m (10ft) long, either by trailing across the ground or, if given something to climb, by twining their way upwards. Its heart-shaped leaves grow up to 12cm (5in) long. Funnel-shaped flowers are about 5cm (2in) wide and appear from June to September; they are usually white but can also be pale pink with a white centre and five white stripes. After flowering, rounded capsules form, each containing up to four oval-shaped brown seeds about 3mm (⅛in) long.  

The stems die back in autumn, leaving just the rhizomatous root system underground, ready to produce new shoots in spring.

Established plants have been in their current location for two or three years and so have well-developed root systems able to support strong growth with healthy foliage and flowers.

Not necessarily, despite containing the word ‘weed’ in their common names. Both plants are UK native wildflowers and are beneficial to wildlife. The leaves of hedge bindweed are a food source for some beetles and the caterpillars of many moths, including convolvulus hawk-moth, elephant hawk-moth and rosy wave moth. The flowers of both types are good for pollinators, attracting bees, butterflies and hoverflies.

Here are our answers to your most common questions about dealing with bindweed:   

How invasive is bindweed? 

Hedge and field bindweed can regenerate from small sections of root. New plants or soil containing root fragments can unintentionally bring bindweed into gardens. Once introduced to soil, bindweed roots spread quickly. Gardeners composting roots or chopping them up when digging might also unwittingly spread it. Taking care not to add roots or stems to your home compost bins and being mindful of where you dig (and if you need to dig at all) helps to reduce their spread. 
 
Hedge bindweed can produce viable seed in the UK but doesn’t often do so. Field bindweed is more likely to produce seed; they might fall near the parent plant or be deposited further away by birds. Bindweed seed can remain viable in the soil for many years.  

Do I need to get rid of bindweed?    

You don’t need to eradicate bindweed from your garden. If left to grow in a wildlife corner or less-cultivated area, or through a mature hedge, it will boost the biodiversity of your garden and gives you a chance to enjoy its attractive flowers.  

It is, however, a good idea to control the spread of hedge and field bindweed as they are both capable of outcompeting and smothering other plants.  

What is the easiest way to kill bindweed?   

If you have hedge or field bindweed growing where it is not wanted, there are several ways to control and eradicate it:  

• Prevent self-seeding – although not prolific self-seeders, it is possible for both hedge and field bindweed to produce viable seeds, so deadhead or remove plants before they have a chance to set seed.  
• Pull or cut off new growth – where it is not possible to remove bindweed roots, regular removal of new stems will suppress it, and if done persistently can eventually eradicate it. 
• Fork out seedlings – they are most likely to appear in spring or autumn. Use a hand fork to lift seedlings from the soil, ensuring you remove the entire root.  
• Fork out plants – use a border fork, inserted to its full depth, to lift and remove as much of the root system as possible.  
• Lift border plants, clear the ground and replant – an option where bindweed is abundant in established borders and you don’t wish to leave the area bare (as below). Use a border fork to lift out and set aside border plants and then remove as much bindweed as possible. Before replanting, examine the rootballs of your plants carefully to remove any hidden bindweed roots. This is best done when the border plants are dormant and less likely to suffer from root disturbance. Regularly check for regrowth from any missed bindweed and fork it out (as above) as soon as it appears.  
• Smother plants – cover with a layer of compostable material, such as cardboard, and then a layer about 20cm (8in) thick of organic matter, such as bark or wood chips. Alternatively, use a heavy grade biodegradable mulch matting. This will block light and prevent growth, causing the root system to die. Keep soil covered for a few years, topping up the mulch layer if necessary, to ensure this method is effective.  
• Mow regularly – if either type of bindweed appears in a lawn, regular mowing will weaken and eventually eliminate it. Laying turf over an area containing lots of bindweed and mowing it regularly will eradicate it; this may take a few years but at least the area is a usable space of lawn during the process.   
• Avoid disturbing the soil – bindweed can regenerate from tiny root fragments, so avoid chopping them up by hoeing, digging or rotavating the soil where it grows.  
• Insert a physical barrier – to prevent the spread of bindweed into your garden from neighbouring properties, insert vertical, solid barriers at least 45cm (18in) deep into the soil along fences and other boundaries.

Should I use weedkiller?      

No, as non-chemical control methods are effective, even if time-consuming, there is no need to use weedkillers. For more information, see our page on Weeds: non-chemical controls.    

Using a systemic weedkiller (sometimes recommended for bindweed control) is not a quick or easy control option. Due to the extensive roots of bindweed, numerous applications, potentially over more than one year, would be necessary to eradicate established bindweed plants. Using vinegar is sometimes recommended, but this is not an effective control method and we advise against using household products as weedkillers. 

The RHS does not support the use of weedkillers and recommends that alternative control methods are used. However, we do note that when gardeners struggle to control plants with cultural methods, regulated weedkillers/pesticides for home gardeners are available for use legally. Garden centres and large retailers selling weedkillers have trained staff who can advise on suitable products for your needs.