Our detailed growing guide will help you with each step in successfully growing Calabrese.
A popular and tasty crop, calabrese produces large domed green heads up to 15cm (6in) across, for harvesting in summer and autumn. Growing calabrese yourself means you can enjoy it freshly picked, when its mild flavour and nutritional benefits are at their peak. Calabrese forms a large green domed head, often sold as ‘broccoli’ in supermarketsCalabrese and broccoli are two different crops, but they are often muddled up, with both plants widely referred to as broccoli. But in gardening terms there’s a clear distinction:
Calabrese plants produce a large central green head of tightly packed buds, ready to harvest from mid-summer to mid-autumn (this is confusingly called broccoli in supermarkets and recipes)
Broccoli plants (also known as sprouting broccoli) produce much smaller clusters of purple or white buds on the tips of leafy stems. For more on this crop, see our guide to growing broccoli
Calabrese is usually sown in spring, either indoors or outside, and is ready to harvest in three or four months, from July to October, depending on the variety and sowing time. It’s a member of the brassica or cabbage family, so should be grown alongside its relatives in crop rotations and should be protected from brassica-eating insects and pigeons – see Common problems, below. Plants grow up to 60cm (2ft) tall and wide, forming a large central green head, which is a cluster of tightly packed flower buds. This is ready to harvest when large and firm but still tightly in bud. After cutting the main head, further smaller heads form on side-shoots, extending the harvest for up to eight weeks. Delicious and versatile, calabrese is best lightly steamed or stir-fried and can be used in all kinds of dishes. It’s particularly popular in Italian cuisine and is named after Calabria in southern Italy. Often hailed as a superfood, calabrese is rich in vitamins and antioxidants.
The RHS has trialled many calabrese varieties, giving the best an Award of Garden MeritYou’ll find a wide selection of calabrese varieties available as seed, offering variations in sowing/harvesting times, plant size, and resistance to bolting (flowering too early), club root and other diseases. Choose compact varieties if space is tight, as they can be grown closer together. For the most reliable calabrese varieties, look for those with an RHS Award of Garden Merit (AGM), which shows they performed exceptionally well in trials – see our list of AGM fruit and veg for recommended varieties of calabrese and many other crops. For more inspiration, why not visit the veg plots in the RHS gardens – you’ll see many crops, including calabrese and other brassicas, and can explore how they’re grown, compare the varieties and pick up useful tips.
Calabrese seeds are widely available from garden centres and online gardening retailers (although, confusingly, they are sometimes sold as broccoli). Young calabrese plants may also be available in spring from similar sources, but the choice of varieties may be very limited.
Calabrese prefers firm, fertile, well-drained soil in a sheltered sunny or lightly shaded spot. If possible, choose and prepare your growing site in advance:
The previous autumn, dig in two bucketfuls of well-rotted manure or garden compost per square metre/yard, to allow the ground time to settle over winter. If done closer to planting time, firm the soil really well by treading it down, shuffling back and forth over it, then rake it smooth
If your soil is very acidic, apply lime the previous winter to raise the pH and deter club root disease. Calabrese prefers soil with a pH of at least 6.8
If your soil is poor, you could rake in a high potassium general fertiliser, such as Vitax Q4. Use one and a half handfuls per square metre/yard – or three handfuls if no manure or garden compost has been added
Calabrese seeds are usually sown between February and June – indoors from late winter into mid-spring, then outdoors from mid-spring to early summer. If you sow several small batches a few weeks apart, you can spread out your harvests and avoid gluts. Calabrese should be grown in the same bed as its other cabbage relatives in crop rotations, to reduce any potential build-up of problems in the soil.
From February to April, you can start calabrese seeds off in a greenhouse or on a windowsill. This should give reliable results, as seedlings are protected from harsh weather and slug damage, however calabrese doesn’t like root disturbance, so take great care when transplanting. Sowing indoors is also preferable if you have club root disease in your soil, so the plants can develop a strong root system before being moved outside. Calabrese doesn’t transplant well in warm weather, making it prone to bolting (premature flowering, leading to a smaller crop), so after April it’s best sown in its final position outdoors (see below). You can also sow in autumn and overwinter the young plants in a greenhouse, to plant out the following spring for an early crop. Sow calabrese in modular trays, to minimise root disturbance when transplanting later. Fill it with peat-free seed compost, water well, then sow two seeds per module, 2cm (¾in) deep. For more sowing tips, see our guides below. Related RHS GuidesSowing seeds indoors – step by stepChoosing and using peat-free compostSeedlings should appear in a couple of weeks. As soon as they’re large enough, thin them out to one seedling per module. When the young calabrese are 10–15cm (4–6in) tall and have a well-formed rootball, transplant them outdoors – see Planting, below.
From April to June, you can sow calabrese seeds outdoors. Brassicas are traditionally sown in a ‘seedbed’ temporarily, separate from the main veg plot, then transplanted to their final growing site after a few months. This is because they need wide spacing, so would take up a lot of room during the prime spring season. However, they can also be sown straight into their final site if you have space, and this is preferable for sowings after mid-spring, as calabrese doesn’t transplant well in warm weather. Choose and prepare your sowing site as explained above (see Preparing the ground), then make a shallow drill about 2cm (¾in) deep:
If using seedbed, sow the seeds thinly along the drill, ideally 7.5cm (3in) apart, or thin out the seedlings to that spacing if sown more thickly. Young plants will be ready to move to their final growing site in early summer – see Planting, below
If sowing in their final position, sow three seeds every 30cm (1ft) along the drill, then thin out each cluster of seedlings to leave just one at each point. Larger varieties may need to be spaced up to 45cm (18in) apart – check individual seed packets for details. Space rows at least 45cm (18in). Alternatively, sow seeds as if in a seedbed (see above) and thin the seedlings to 7.5cm (3in) apart, then in early summer thin them again to their final spacing of 30cm (1ft) apart, moving the spare plants to form new rows or fill any gaps
For more sowing tips, see our guides below. Related RHS GuidesSowing veg outdoorsSow outdoors – step by stepSeedlings should appear in a couple of weeks – look after them by:
Covering with insect-proof mesh to exclude both insects and pigeons – see Common problems, below
Protecting them from slugs and snails
Weeding and watering as necessary
Calabrese is a fast-growing brassica and needs little maintenance apart from weeding regularly, watering in dry spells and ongoing protection from pigeons and certain insects.
Water young calabrese plants regularly until well established. Once they have a good root system, they should only need watering during dry spells, to avoid any check in their growth, which could cause them to bolt (flower prematurely, leading to a reduced crop). For water-saving tips, see our guides below.
Apply a thick mulch of garden compost to help hold moisture in the ground, reduce the need for watering and deter weeds.
On poor soil or to boost slow growth, you could apply a high nitrogen fertiliser, such as sulphate of ammonia, when calabrese plants are about 20cm (8in) tall, at a rate of 35g (1oz) per square metre/yard.
Once the main head starts to form, calabrese plants can become top-heavy, so pile up soil around the base of the stem to improve stability. Buffeting by strong wind can loosen the roots and hinder growth. Tall plants and those in exposed sites may need additional support – insert a sturdy cane and tie in the main stem to hold it secure.
Prevent bird and insect damage by covering brassicas with fine mesh, propped up on canesPigeons and several species of insects like to eat calabrese. The easiest way to exclude them is to cover the crop with insect-proof mesh, supported on canes or hoops and pinned to the ground. For more details, see Common problems, below.
Calabrese is harvested in late summer and autumn. The main head is ready to cut when 10–15cm (4–6in) across, well formed but still in bud, before the flowers begin to open. Harvest promptly once ready, as the flowers can open quickly, especially in warm weather. After you harvest the main head, further small heads will develop on side-shoots, which can be picked regularly over the following weeks. The young, tender leaves can also be eaten. Check plants every few days to ensure you harvest the new heads before the flowers open. Regular harvesting encourages plants to produce further small heads, extending the cropping season for up to a couple of months. Cut the main head when still tightly in bud, then smaller ones will form on side-shoots
Calabrese usually grows and crops well. But it may bolt in hot weather, meaning it starts to flower prematurely, before plants reach full size, leading to a smaller crop. Harvest these early clusters of buds as soon as you see them forming, before they rapidly open into flowers. Choose a bolt-resistant variety in warmer regions. Calabrese is also vulnerable to several diseases that affect brassicas, and can be damaged by pigeons and certain insects – see Common problems, below for more details on how to deter or prevent them. Related RHS GuidesControlling problems without chemicalsPreventing problems
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