Hedges require pruning after planting and regular trimming once established, to keep them dense, looking neat and within bounds. Here’s all you need to know to keep on top of your garden hedges.
Hand-held hedge shears are fine for smaller hedges, but for large hedges you'll probably find it easier to use a powered hedge trimmer. Many different types are available, including corded electric, battery powdered and petrol trimmers. Their weight is an important factor to consider, particularly if you have a lot of hedging to cut. Other considerations are the length/reach of the blades (pole and telescopic handled trimmers with adjustable blades are available), whether it has a single or double-sided blade, and how powerful it is – the power plus the distance between the blade teeth determines the thickness of stems it will cut through.
Big improvements in battery powdered hedge trimmers have been made in recent years, offering relatively light, quiet and effective options, without the worry of cables or the need for petrol and two-stroke oil. No matter what you use, always make sure the equipment is sharp, well-lubricated and in good working order. If you have a large-leaved hedge, such as cherry laurel (Prunus laurocerasus), it’s best to prune individual stems with secateurs or loppers if you have the time, as using hand shears or hedge trimmers creates cut leaf surfaces that look unsightly. Always think of your safety when using a powered hedge trimmer and wear safety goggles and thick gloves. Before starting, remove any obstacles on the ground. Try to avoid using powered tools above shoulder height and use sturdy tripod ladders, step ladders or platforms, ensuring they are stable. Tripod ladders with adjustable legs are useful when working from uneven ground. Electric hedge trimmers should ideally be used with a residual current device (RCD) and should not be used in damp conditions. Place the cable over your shoulder to help prevent it being accidentally cut. See our guide to electricity in the garden for more safety tips.
Hedges may be formal, to create clear lines and boundaries, or informal, to more softly edge an area or create a colourful backdrop. Which type of hedge you grow affects the pruning technique you need to use: Formal hedges There is no need for the width of even vigorous hedges to exceed 60cm (2ft) if they are regularly trimmed. Formal hedges should be slightly tapered on both sides so that the base is wider than the top and light can reach the bottom of the hedge. This is known as cutting the hedge to a ‘batter’. Sides can also be cut with a ‘chamfer’, where the top section of a vertical side is cut at a 45° angle to meet the horizontal top. Informal hedges In general, informal hedges just need cutting back to the required size and any misplaced shoots removing. Using secateurs or loppers allows for a looser, more natural looking finish, and avoids unsightly leaf damage to large evergreen leaves. Where flowers are desired on informal hedges, only prune once at the correct time of year to encourage flowering. Pruning at the wrong time of year could reduce or prevent flowering. See our guides to pruning evergreens, pruning summer-flowering shrubs and pruning early-flowering shrubs for information on pruning to maximise flowering.
Deciduous refers to plants (mainly trees and shrubs) that lose their leaves seasonally, usually during autumn. This is a natural process triggered by the season's shorter days and lower temperatures and allows plants to conserve energy during the winter months.
A bud is a small, undeveloped shoot that contains the potential for new growth. Buds are typically found on stems, where they can be apical (found at the tip) or axillary (found between leaf axils) and may develop into leaves, shoots or flowers.
Once a hedge has reached a height and width you are happy with, maintain it with regular trimming to remove nearly all young (less than a year old) growth. This is usually carried out once a year on informal hedges, and once, twice or three times a year on formal ones. While you may need to delay pruning to avoid disturbing nesting birds (see ‘Problems’ section below), these are the optimum timings for trimming hedges:
Buxus sempervirens (box): Twice or three times during growing season Ilex aquifolium (holly): Once in late summer Ligustrum (privet): Twice or three times during growing season Lonicera ligustrina var. yunnanensis: Twice or three times in growing season Prunus laurocerasus: Prune twice during growing season
Chamaecyparis lawsoniana (Lawson's cypress): Twice, in spring and summer × Cuprocyparis leylandii (Leyland cypress): Twice or three times in growing season Taxus baccata (yew): Twice, in summer and autumn Thuja plicata: In spring and again in early autumn
Carpinus betulus (hornbeam): Once, in mid- to late summer Crataegus monogyna (hawthorn): Twice, in summer and autumn Fagus sylvatica (beech): Once, in late summer
Berberis darwinii: Immediately after flowering Cotoneaster lacteus: After fruiting Escallonia: Immediately after flowering Lavandula (lavender): Immediately after flowering Pyracantha: Late summer
Berberis thunbergii: Immediately after flowering Forsythia: After flowering, remove some older stems Fuchsia magellanica: In spring, remove old stems Rosa rugosa: In spring, remove thin twigs
The process of pruning a hedge is similar whether it's Deciduous refers to plants (mainly trees and shrubs) that lose their leaves seasonally, usually during autumn. This is a natural process triggered by the season's shorter days and lower temperatures and allows plants to conserve energy during the winter months. deciduous or evergreen, formal or informal. For step-by-step advice on pruning hedges, see our handy how-to guide to hedge trimming.
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