How to grow hellebores

What are hellebores?

Hellebores are perennials, mainly native to woodland edges, so they enjoy dappled shade – although some will also grow in sun, others in deeper shade. Many have bold evergreen leaves, some marbled or silvery for added appeal. These hardy plants bloom in winter and early spring, when little else is in its prime.  
 
The most popular and easy-to-grow hellebores are the Oriental hybrids (Helleborus x hybridus) – there are hundreds to choose from, with flowers in shades of cream, pink or ruby, often speckled for added allure.

Hellebores that form larger clumps, topped with clusters of small green flowers, include our native stinking hellebore (H. foetidus) and the holly-leaved hellebore (H. argutifolius) from Corsica. 

There are also various other hellebores that need more specialist attention, mainly because they dislike cold, wet soil or harsh frosts, so are best sheltered in a greenhouse over winter.

How to choose hellebores

Hellebores can be divided into two main groups, based on how easy they are to grow and their preferred growing conditions.

Easy-to-grow hellebores

Helleborus × hybridus, commonly known as Oriental hybrids, are hardy and long lived, with nodding flowers in subtle shades of white, pink, ruby or dark, dusky plum. Some have open saucer-shaped flowers, ideal for pollinators, while others have

A type of flower that has extra petals, often having a fuller appearance. Plants with double flowers are often considered more ornamental and showy than those with single flowers, though they are generally not as good for wildlife, having little or no pollen. Some plants naturally produce double flowers, while others may be bred for this trait. Examples of plants with double flowers include roses, sunflowers, dahlias, and zinnias.

Other easy-to-grow hellebores with attractive foliage and flowers include:  

• Helleborus argutifolius AGM – holly-leaved hellebore, with pendent, green flowers and glossy holly-like foliage

• H. × ericsmithii – a

  A hybrid plant is the offspring produced by cross-pollinating one specific cultivar with another different cultivar. This process of cross-pollination, rather than pollination between plants of the same cultivar, generally creates stronger, healthier, improved offspring, said to have ‘hybrid vigour’.

  hybrid between H.× sternii and H. niger. Large white flowers, tinged pink, are produced on pink stems above green toothed leaves with white veins and a metallic sheen. Height to 35cm (14in)

• H. foetidus AGM – the stinking hellebore, a UK native, with lime-green bell-shaped flowers above finely divided leaves. A handsome, architectural plant, it only smells when the leaves are crushed

• H. × nigercors – a variable hybrid (H. niger x H. argutifolius) with semi-rigid, grey-green leaves. The saucer-shaped flowers are white and tinged blue-green in winter to spring.

• H. × sternii – pale green flowers, tinted with pink

These hellebores, and their hybrids and cultivars, enjoy sun for at least part of the day, although H. foetidus will grow in deeper shade. They tend to be short lived, but removing the flowering stems once the blooms fade in spring will encourage new growth.

Hellebores that need more care

• Helleborus niger (Christmas rose) is widely known and widely grown, but it can be challenging to keep going, as it needs excellent drainage in winter. It’s ideal for winter container displays, in free-draining compost, producing snowy white flowers from the festive season onwards

• H. lividus forms a neat plant with bluish-green marbled leaves, but it doesn’t cope well with winter cold and wet. So, for a similar foliage display, consider the more robust H. × sternii

• H. thibetanus is a delicate beauty, ideal for enthusiasts. Unusually, this hellebore is deciduous, so dies back in late summer then re-sprouts in spring. It dislikes wet conditions during its

  Dormancy refers to a period of inactivity in plants, during which they slow down or stop their growth, conserving energy and resources. This is a natural process that helps them survive harsh conditions, such as winter or drought. Dormancy in seeds is a mechanism that prevents them germinating until environmental conditions are favourable for growth.

  dormant period

For the best results, grow these hellebores in containers and overwinter them in a cool greenhouse or beside a south- or west-facing wall for shelter.

For an idea of the wide colour selection that hellebores offer see: 
Hellebores with white flowers 
Hellebores with pink or yellow flowers
Hellebores with dark flower shades
Hellebores with marbled or bold leaves

How to buy hellebores

Hellebores are usually sold in flower in winter and spring, for immediate planting. They are widely available in garden centres and by mail-order from online suppliers.

Young plants are offered in 9cm (3½in) pots, as well as more mature plants in containers of up to 2 litres, to provide greater impact.

When to plant

The best time to plant hellebores is from autumn to spring, and they are most often bought in flower, ready for planting.

However, they can be planted at any time of year, although it's best to avoid the dry summer months.
 

Where to plant

Hellebores can be grown in the ground or in containers. Most like:

• light or dappled shade, with sun for part of the day 

• soil enriched with organic matter

• conditions that are neither very dry not waterlogged

There are a few exceptions:

• Helleborus foetidus prefers deeper shade

• H. argutifolius and H. × sternii are best in sun, sheltered from strong, cold winds

• H. lividus, H. niger and H. thibetanus like a cool, sheltered spot in light shade with free-draining soil. If your soil is heavy or poorly drained, plant in a raised bed or a container, for improved drainage

RHS guide to assessing your growing conditions

RHS guide to assessing your growing conditions

RHS guide to identifying your soil type

RHS guide to identifying your soil type

How to plant

Like most perennials, hellebores are quick and easy to plant – see our guide to planting perennials in borders.

With hellebores specifically:

• Dig lots of organic matter, such as garden compost, into the entire planting area, to help keep the soil consistently moist. Use one bucketful per square metre (square yard) 

• Position plants at the same level they were growing in their original container – hellebores don’t like to being planted too deep

• Space plants 35–45cm (14–18in) apart. Larger types need a little more space – plant Helleborus argutifolius 60–120cm (2–4ft) apart and H. foetidus 60cm (2ft) apart

• Lay a mulch of organic matter over the soil to help stop it drying out, leaving a gap around the base of the plant to avoid rotting 

RHS guide to laying mulch

RHS guide to laying mulch

RHS guide to planting perennials in borders

RHS guide to planting perennials in borders

Planting in containers 

Most hellebores should only be planted temporarily in containers, as part of a winter display. Then in spring, after flowering, transplant permanently into a border. 

RHS guide to planting in containers

RHS guide to planting in containers

RHS guide to planting a container display

RHS guide to planting a container display

• Choose a container that is only slightly larger than the original pot
• Plant in free-draining compost – ideally John Innes No.3 compost mixed with 30 per cent by volume of peat-free multipurpose compost and 10-20 per cent perlite or horticultural grit
• Position the plant at the same level it was in the original pot

Watering

• Newly planted hellebores need regular watering during their first growing season, from spring to summer 

• Established plants will benefit from watering during hot dry spells 

• Hellebores in containers need watering regularly, as they can dry out very quickly. Keep them out of summer sun to reduce water loss

RHS guide to collecting and storing rainwater

RHS guide to collecting and storing rainwater

RHS video guide to watering efficiently

RHS video guide to watering efficiently

Feeding

• Hellebores in borders seldom need additional feeding

• If growth is poor, this is likely to be due to drying out or waterlogged soil, rather than a lack of nutrients, so check for these first 

• If you still wish to feed, apply a general-purpose fertiliser, such as growmore or fish, blood and bone in spring, at 50-70g per square metre (1½-2oz per square yard)

• Plants in containers have less access to nutrients, so need regular feeding with a balanced liquid fertiliser. To encourage flowering, use a potassium-rich fertiliser, such as tomato feed

RHS guide to looking after plants in containers

RHS guide to looking after plants in containers

RHS guide to feeding plants

RHS guide to feeding plants

Mulching

Spread a generous layer of mulch over the soil around plants annually, and top up when necessary – see our guide to mulching.

Overwintering

• Most of the widely available hellebores, especially the Oriental hybrids (Helleborus × hybridus), are hardy and don’t need additional protection

• H. niger needs excellent drainage in winter, as it dislikes sitting in cold, damp soil. So it’s best to grow it in a container, keeping it in a sheltered spot through winter (such as at the base of a south- or west-facing house wall)

• Borderline-hardy species, such as H. lividus, or those that dislike winter wet, such as H. thibetanus, are best overwintered under cover in a cool greenhouse, porch or coldframe

Caring for older plants

• If grown in a suitable spot, Helleborus × hybridus are usually long-lived plants. Reinvigorate old, large clumps by dividing in autumn or spring

• Other hellebores can be shorter lived, lasting five years or less. Encourage new growth by cutting back old flowers and leaves in late spring

Oriental hybrids 

• Cut back the old leaves of Helleborus x hybridus in late winter or early spring to ensure the nodding flowers are on full display. This also helps to control hellebore leaf spot disease 

• These hellebores often self-seed and the resulting offspring can grow to smother the original plant. So dig up and move seedlings before they get too large, or remove the seed pods before they open, cutting stems at the base, to prevent unwanted seedlings

Other hellebores

• Remove any damaged or diseased foliage in autumn

• Once the flowers have faded in late spring, remove the old flower stems and ageing leaves to encourage new growth from the base. Leave some seedpods if you want plants to self-seed

By division

The easiest way to make new plants of most hellebores is by digging up and dividing the clumps – see our guide to dividing perennials. This is best done in early autumn, although you can also do it in spring, straight after flowering.

When replanting the smaller clumps you have made, position them so the first roots at the base of the growing shoots is 2.5cm (1in) below the soil surface. Water regularly for the first growing season, until well rooted in.

The new plants may be slow to establish, taking a couple years to flower well.

The following are not well-suited to dividing, but can be grown from seed: Helleborus argutifolius, H. foetidus, H. lividus and H. × sternii.

From seed

If not deadheaded, Helleborus × hybridus, H. argutifolius and H. foetidus will self-seed freely, so look out for young seedlings appearing in the surrounding soil – either leave them where they are, or carefully dig up and grow on in pots until they are sturdy young plants.
 
You can also collect the seeds from ripe pods and sow in mid- to late summer outdoors. 

Stored seeds can be difficult to germinate and need a warm period followed by a cold period:

• After sowing, keep at 15–18°C for six weeks

• Then expose to winter cold or keep at 5°C for another six weeks

Germination may be sporadic and take up to a year.
 
The offspring of cultivars and hybrids may differ slightly from the parent, but it can be interesting to see the variations in the flowers.

Most of the widely available hellebores will perform well for years with little maintenance when grown in suitable conditions. But they will struggle in very dry or wet soils. 

However, hellebores can suffer from the following leaf problems, although they aren’t usually major issues:

• hellebore aphids – which can be removed by hand  

• hellebore leaf spot – prune out infected leaves in autumn 

• hellebore leaf miner – only affects Helleborus foetidus, remove damaged leaves in winter

Hellebore black death, on the other hand, is a serious disease – there is no cure and affected plants should be destroyed to prevent its spread.

RHS guide to controlling pests and diseases without chemicals

RHS guide to controlling pests and diseases without chemicals

Get more advice

If you’re a member of the RHS, you can use our online Gardening Advice Service, via MyRHS, for any gardening problems or queries.