Wise gardeners will plan ahead in autumn to save precious plants bought this summer, and increase stocks of plants and material for next year. Costs continue to rise in every
In gardening, ‘aspect’ refers to the direction in which a garden or plant is facing. This can affect the amount of sunlight and shade that plants receive, as well as the temperature and wind exposure. South- and west-facing aspects are usually warm and sunny, while east- and north-facing aspects are colder and shadier.
aspect of life. Gardening is no exception, with no end in sight to increases in the cost of seeds, plants and materials, as global tensions impact supply chains. Here are some seasonal solutions to ease the pressure on your wallet.
Eight autumn ideas
1) Divide, swap and share
In early autumn, select shoots from late perennial, summer flowers such as penstemon and salvia, or from tender plants, including fuchsias and pelargoniums. Ideally choose non-flowering shoots, rooting these in a
A heated propagator is a portable heated structure with a vented lid and adjustable, constant, thermostatic temperature control. It provides a warm, humid environment to help seeds germinate and cuttings to root quickly.
heated propagator ideally, or in pots covered with a plastic bag on a warm, but not scorching, windowsill. Keep the A method of growing new plants from parts of an existing plant, such as sections of root, stem, leaf or bud. When prepared correctly and planted in the right conditions, they can produce roots and eventually become independent plants. There is a wide range of different methods for taking cuttings, depending on the plant and time of year.
cuttings in a bright frost-free place until spring.
By mid-autumn, summer flowering plants such as hardy geraniums, phlox and rudbeckia will be dying back and be ready to divide. Detach offsets from the edge of existing clumps and plant in new borders, or pot up to plant in spring. Next year these small rooted pieces will grow away quickly and should make substantial plants for summer. Removing offsets works on the same principle as dividing your plants, except you just take material from the edge and leave the centre intact.
If you have an abundance of plant sections, why not share with friends, neighbours or even with passers-by. If you leave them nicely wrapped in newspaper, outside your front gate, they might even return the favour. Be kind – don’t distribute plants with pests, diseases or an invasive tendency, such as golden rod or plume poppy, and be aware that not everyone will have your high standards, so examine other people’s offerings closely. The parts of divided plants you have retained will soon regrow and be all the better for thinning.
2) Take cuttings
Cuttings of evergreen shrubs can root well in early autumn. Choisya, euonymus and hebe are typical of these easy-to-root plants, using new shoots that are neither soft nor too woody but are firm at the base and flexible higher up – called ‘semi-ripe’. They will root within a few weeks in a heated
A propagator is a portable, lightweight structure usually plastic, with a vented or unvented lid to provide a humid, slightly warmer atmosphere. It is useful to help seeds germinate and root cuttings. It may have adjustable, thermostatic temperature control.
propagator but can also root by late spring in an unheated Cold frames are glaze box-like structures made from brick or wood with a hinged or removable, glazed, sloping lid. Useful to protect plants from cold weather over winter or acclimatise (harden off) young plants in spring and provide extra warmth for tender crops in summer.
Mulch news
cold frame or even a simple tunnel A cloche is a small, portable, protective structure made of glass or rigid transparent plastic used to protect plants, especially overwintered and early vegetables, from wet and cold weather and to warm the soil before planting.
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cloche of transparent plastic, stretched over hoops made from old wire coat hangers. Pot them up in spring or early summer when they have ample roots, to plant out next autumn.
After leaf fall, consider taking
Hardwood cuttings are taken from mid-autumn until late winter from vigorous healthy shoots of the current year's growth - this will be woody but pliable. Use for deciduous climbers, shrubs, trees (including fruit) and some evergreens such as hollies.
hardwood cuttings – these are simply leafless sticks, slightly thicker than a pencil, of this year’s growth. Discard any soft tips and insert into the soil with just the top third showing. Gooseberries, currants and willows are very willing subjects.
3) Save summer bulbs
Before summer-flowering
These are fleshy, rounded, underground storage organs, usually sold and planted while dormant. Examples include daffodils, tulips, hyacinths, lilies, onions and garlic. The term is often used to cover other underground storage organs, including corms, tubers and rhizomes.
bulbs die back fully for winter and become hard to find, dig them up and store cool and fairly dry, but not desiccated, over the winter, ready to plant from mid-spring next year. Typical examples include Acidanthera, Babiana, begonia, Brodiaea, dahlias, freesia, Galtonia, Gladiolus and Ornithogalum. Bulbs, corms Rhizomes are creeping swollen root-like structures that are actually adapted stems. Roots, stems with leaves and flowers are produced along its length. See plants such as Anemone nemorosa, bamboo, canna, border iris.
rhizomes and Tubers are swollen, usually underground, parts of a stem or root used to store food by the plant. They have buds that can produce new plants. Examples are tuberous begonia, cyclamen, dahlia and potato.
tubers might survive in the soil in mild, dry winters in light soil but elsewhere careful storing is safer.
Spring flowering bulbs such anemones, crocus and snake’s head fritillaries are good buys, as they often persist for many years, unlike hyacinths and tulips, which can swiftly dwindle. Potted bulbs make good houseplants with potted daffodils and grape hyacinths being suitable to be planted out in the garden after flowering where, with luck, they will persist for years.
4) Scavenge seeds
Until the cold and wet causes seedheads to rot after mid-autumn, many seeds can be collected from garden plants. Seeds mature about two months after flowering, so summer flowering rudbeckia, helenium, salvia and sunflowers, amongst many others, can provide valuable seeds to sow next spring. Shrubs and climbers can also yield useful, easy-to-grow seeds; brooms, Abutilon vitifolium, Clematis tagutica and Leycesteria formosa for example.
Tree seeds can make useful hedging plants – beech for example, which must be sown fresh. Haws – the red berries of hawthorns that make valuable wildlife-friendly hedges, need to experience winter before they germinate. Crush the seeds with damp sand and put in a pierced biscuit tin or similar container outdoors, where the weather can act on the seeds, breaking their dormancy, so they can be sown, sand and all, in spring.
Seeds from supermarket fruits such as avocado, citrus, dried dates and figs, grapes lychees and mango often germinate well in a warm place such as the airing cupboard and soon grow into reasonable houseplants on a bright windowsill. They might become a little distressed by late winter, but trimmed and left in a warm sunny place outdoors next summer they should recover for bringing indoors before winter.
5) Treasure seedlings
Treasure A seedling is a young plant grown from seed.
seedlings that pop up in the garden over summer. Hazel, holly, chestnut, oak and sycamore, for example, can be dug up and replanted to make, or fill in, gaps in hedges. Alternatively consider giving them the bonsai treatment, growing them in small pots with much pruning of roots and shoots, and perhaps using wire to force them to grow into charming shapes.
6) Make your own compost and fertiliser
Composting spent crops and plants, and gathering the abundance of fallen leaves in autumn, is a low cost way of maintaining soil fertility. Mix materials in roughly a proportion of one third soft, nitrogen rich ingredients such as grass mowings, vegetable crop waste and uncooked kitchen waste, with two thirds by volume of straw material, such as dying-back herbaceous plants and fallen leaves. Use shredded or scrunched up paper and cardboard, if short of straw-like waste, and a sprinkle of dried poultry manure or lucerne (alfalfa) pellets if lacking nitrogen-rich material. By spring these wastes will be rotted enough to use as
Can refer to either home-made garden compost or seed/potting compost: • Garden compost is a soil improver made from decomposed plant waste, usually in a compost bin or heap. It is added to soil to improve its fertility, structure and water-holding capacity. Seed or potting composts are used for growing seedlings or plants in containers - a wide range of commercially produced peat-free composts are available, made from a mix of various ingredients, such as loam, composted bark, coir and sand, although you can mix your own.
compost or a mulch, especially if you can find time over winter to mix the contents to speed up decomposition.
7) Recover and reuse
Gather up all those sundries and store them away. Canes, for example, can have their rotten ends sawn off and be tied in bundles of the same length ready to use next year. Similarly for stakes, netting, and fleece. Keep solid fertilisers dry and don’t let liquids freeze – they will take no harm before next year.
Soil To grow well, plants need a wide range of nutrients in various amounts, depending on the individual plant and its stage of growth. The three key plant nutrients usually derived from soil are nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, while carbon, oxygen and hydrogen are absorbed from the air. Other vital soil nutrients include magnesium, calcium and sulphur. Gardeners can add nutrients by applying fertilisers (either artificial or naturally derived) to boost plant growth and improve flowering and fruiting.
nutrients can also be scavenged – simply sow any areas of ground that become free before November with cover crops. More economically, use low-cost seeds from Asian supermarkets, including fava beans, black mustard, and fenugreek. You can also use bird seed or dry pet food, including wheat, barley, and sunflowers. Even if the plants are killed by frost, the soluble nutrients will have been taken up, and won’t be washed out of the soil over winter; they remain in a form that will rot, releasing nutrients to feed next year’s plants. Wildlife also benefits from soil covered with plants. Even weeds left untouched will help, although they will need to be managed come spring.
8) Hold on to prunings
Retain woody stems when pruning in autumn and winter to be used for plant supports and ‘pea sticks,’ or store to use as tomato stakes or bean poles if they are more sizable stems. Acquisitive, yet helpful, gardeners may offer to prune neighbours’ gardens to get more free sticks – a modest gift suitably offered may help here.