While training and pruning isn’t essential, it does help to maximise cropping and keep plants productive and well shaped, making good use of available space. Pruning should be started as soon as they are planted and carried out once or twice a year, depending on which shape you choose. 

The most fruitful training option is a multi-stemmed, open-centred bush, with eight to ten main branches radiating from a short trunk (leg). 
 
Where space is limited or to make the most of an east- or north-facing wall or fence, both of these currants can be trained as single- or multi-stemmed cordons. The fruit is produced on short side-shoots growing from a vertical stem(s). Another compact option is a fan, trained against a wall or fence.

Standard-trained currants also take up little space and make an attractive feature, ideal in borders, kitchen gardens and formal parterres, or planted in containers.

Fruiting

The flower

A bud is a small, undeveloped shoot that contains the potential for new growth. Buds are typically found on stems, where they can be apical (found at the tip) or axillary (found between leaf axils) and may develop into leaves, shoots or flowers.

Clusters of flowers or fruit growing from the same point or node on a stem. The term is commonly used in relation to tomatoes.

Trusses

What to buy

To grow as a bush, buy a one- or two-year-old plant with a short main stem (leg) that is 10–15m (4–6in) long, and three or more strongly growing side-shoots. These are widely available container-grown, or can be bought as

These have been lifted from the ground while dormant, with little or no soil around their roots. Various plants may be available bare root, including fruit trees, hedging plants and some perennials. They are generally cheaper than plants in containers, but are only available in winter/early spring, while dormant

A plant that is restricted by pruning to usually one main stem, either upright or at a 45 degree angle, with short fruiting side-shoots (spurs). Apples, pears, gooseberries, tomatoes, redcurrants and whitecurrants are often grown as cordons, especially where space is limited. Sweet peas can be grown as cordons to produce large flowers for exhibition.

cordon

Cordon-trained currants are particularly suitable for growing in containers  

• From late winter to early spring – prune all forms of red- and whitecurrants annually, while the plants are still dormant, before any signs of growth appear

• In mid-summer – prune cordons and fans to restrict growth and maintain their shape. Additionally, vigorous cultivars trained as bushes can be pruned to curb their growth

Year 1 – pruning after planting

1. Remove any shoots growing from the short main stem to keep it clear
2. Select up to five well-spaced, strong shoots and prune them back to 15–20cm (6–8in). Remove any other shoots 

Year 2 – late winter

Continue to build up the framework of main branches, aiming for eight to ten in total, in a goblet shape with an open centre.

1. Shorten by half last year’s growth on the original branches pruned the previous year

2. Select another five or six well-placed, strongly growing, outward-facing shoots that will form the additional main branches. Prune them back by half

3. With any surplus or badly positioned shoots (for example that are crossing or growing inwards to the centre), prune them back to one outward-facing

   A bud is a small, undeveloped shoot that contains the potential for new growth. Buds are typically found on stems, where they can be apical (found at the tip) or axillary (found between leaf axils) and may develop into leaves, shoots or flowers.

   bud

Winter pruning

This should be carried out every year while the plant is dormant, to maintain the open-centred bush shape, with up to ten well-spaced main branches carrying short side-shoots. This will enhance fruit ripening, as well as making harvesting easier. Keeping an open centre ensures the branches don’t become overcrowded and more prone to pests and diseases. 

Start by removing any dead or damaged shoots, then:

1. Reduce the previous season’s growth on the main branches by a quarter to a half

2. Prune back shoots growing from the main branches or previously pruned side-shoots to one to two buds, but retain shoots that can be used as replacement branches (see below)

3. On mature bushes, remove one or two older, less-fruitful branches either every year or every other year to stimulate the production of strong replacements. Alternatively, prune to an existing strong side-shoot that can become a replacement

4. Remove any low-growing branches that will bend even lower under the weight of the crop. This helps to avoid soil splash on the fruit and reduce pest damage 

Summer pruning

Summer pruning isn’t essential, but can be carried out on more vigorous cultivars to curb their growth. In mid-June to July, shorten the current season’s growth on side-shoots growing from the main branches, cutting them back to five leaves. But avoid pruning any shoots that are needed to replace old, less fruitful branches.

A ‘standard’ is a form of training that produces a lollipop-shaped plant, with a straight bare trunk and a ‘head’ of branches at the top.

The branches need to be pruned in the same way as a bush (see above), to form an open-centred goblet shape. Regular pruning is essential to prevent the head becoming too large and overcrowded. Standards also need a permanent strong stake to support the main stem. 

To form the ‘standard’ shape, the fruiting

Gardeners often use the word variety when referring to a specific plant, but the correct botanical term is 'cultivar'. Whichever word you use, it means a distinctive plant or plants, given a specific cultivar name and usually bred to enhance certain characteristics, such as flower or fruit size, colour, flavour or fragrance, plant size, hardiness, disease resistance, etc. Additionally, it is worth knowing that, botanically, variety has another meaning - it refers to a naturally-occurring distinct plant that only has slight differences in its looks. For example, Malva alcea var. fastigiata differs from typical plants by having an upright habit.

A

A plant that is restricted by pruning to usually one main stem, either upright or at a 45 degree angle, with short fruiting side-shoots (spurs). Apples, pears, gooseberries, tomatoes, redcurrants and whitecurrants are often grown as cordons, especially where space is limited. Sweet peas can be grown as cordons to produce large flowers for exhibition.

A cane is a slender, straight, length of woody plant material, usually bamboo. Canes are primarily used as plant supports. The fruiting stems of blackberries, raspberries and hybrid berries (such as loganberries and tayberries) are also known as canes, so these crops are often referred to as cane fruit.

cane

Single-stemmed vertical cordon 

Year 1 – winter after planting

1. If starting with a one-year-old plant, prune the previous season’s growth on the main (leading) shoot by a quarter to a half. Look for the top of the original cutting – marked ‘1a’

2. Tie this main stem to a bamboo cane fixed to the horizontal wires

3. Prune all other shoots back to one bud

4. Keep the lower 15–20cm (6–8in) of the stem free of any shoots

Pre-trained cordons may have already been pruned before sale. If not, treat as described above.

It is also possible to convert a young one- or two-year-old bush-trained plant. Select one strong, upright shoot and reduce the previous season’s growth by a quarter to a half. Prune all other shoots back to one to two buds.

Year 1 - summer and onwards

1. Continue tying the leading shoot to the support as it grows

2. Once the side-shoots have produced seven to eight leaves, prune them back to five leaves. Pinch back any re-growth or developing side-shoots to one leaf

Year 2 - winter and onwards

1. Prune the previous season’s growth on the main vertical stem by a quarter, or by half if growth is weak. Cut just above a

   A bud is a small, undeveloped shoot that contains the potential for new growth. Buds are typically found on stems, where they can be apical (found at the tip) or axillary (found between leaf axils) and may develop into leaves, shoots or flowers.

   bud on the opposite side to the last year’s cut, to keep the growth straight. Once the cordon reaches the desired height, prune the new growth back to one bud each year

2. Prune the side-shoots that were pruned in summer back to one or two buds. On more mature cordons, the spur systems (clusters of short fruiting shoots) can become overcrowded – renovate by pruning out some of the older sections

3. Keep the base of the main stem free of any shoots

Follow this with summer pruning as described for Year 1 – summer and onwards. Once the cordon reaches the desired height, prune the new growth on the leading shoot to five

A bud is a small, undeveloped shoot that contains the potential for new growth. Buds are typically found on stems, where they can be apical (found at the tip) or axillary (found between leaf axils) and may develop into leaves, shoots or flowers.

Double cordon

• Straight after planting in winter, select two well-placed side-shoots on the main (leading) stem that are growing almost opposite each other. They should be about 15–25cm (6–10in) from the ground

• Prune the main stem back to just above the topmost selected side-shoot

• Any shoots growing below the lower selected side-shoot should be cut back to two buds. Then remove the shoots entirely in summer – they were simply helping to support the plant’s growth

• Train the selected shoots in opposite directions at a 30° angle. Once they reach 20–25cm (8–10in) in length, start training them upwards, tying them vertically to canes

• Continue summer and winter pruning as for a single-stemmed vertical cordon

Vertical and horizontal bamboo canes provide secure support for these double cordon redcurrants in containers