RHS Growing Guides
How to grow medlars
Our detailed growing guide will help you with each step in successfully growing Medlars.
Getting Started
Medlar fruits are a curious delicacy, popular in medieval times but now not widely grown. Harvested in autumn when usually still hard, bitter and unripe, the small golden-brown fruits need to be stored for several weeks to ripen (or blet) until they are dark brown, soft, sweet and aromatic. They can then either be eaten (traditionally with cheese and port) or, more popularly, used to make a fragrant amber jelly to accompany rich meats. They can also be used in sweet desserts. Medlar fruits are very rarely available to buy, although you may sometimes find medlar jelly, so the best way to enjoy these unusual fruits is to grow your own.
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Choosing
The common medlar (Mespilus germanica) forms a large, broad tree up to 8m tall and wide, best suited to medium to large gardens. There are also several varieties, which usually form smaller trees or produce larger or better flavoured fruits. You only need one tree for a good crop, as they are self-pollinating. Most medlar trees are sold grafted onto either hawthorn or quince roots, to keep them more compact – grafted medlar trees eventually reach 4–6m (13–20ft) tall and wide. The three most common rootstocks are Crataegus (hawthorn) and ‘Quince A’, which are semi-vigorous, and ‘Quince C’, which is semi-dwarfing.
When choosing any fruit trees, look in particular for varieties with an RHS Award of Garden Merit (AGM), which shows they performed well in trials, so should grow and crop reliably – see our list of AGM fruit and veg. You can also see many productive fruit trees, including medlars, in the fruit and veg areas of the RHS gardens, so do visit to see how they are grown, compare the varieties and pick up useful tips. In particular, the RHS Gardens Hyde Hall and Wisley have several productive medlar trees.
What and where to buy
Medlar trees aren’t widely available in garden centres, but specialist fruit nurseries and online fruit tree suppliers should stock several varieties. Choose a grafted tree on a semi-dwarfing or semi-vigorous rootstock, unless you have plenty of space. Medlars are sold as young trees, ready for planting, in two forms:
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Bare-root trees – only available while dormant, from late autumn to early spring, for immediate planting, and generally cheaper than trees in pots
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Containerised trees – available all year round for planting at any time, but winter is preferable
When buying a tree, look for well-balanced branches with a strong central shoot (leader). Also check the roots and avoid pot-bound plants, as tightly packed roots may be stunted and not grow well once in the ground.
Recommended Varieties
Small fruits with a good flavour. Prolific harvests, on a fairly compact tree.
Planting
The best time to plant medlar trees is while they’re dormant, from autumn to spring. Trees bought in containers can be planted at other times, but avoid planting in hot, dry weather. Medlars grow best in deep, fertile, well-drained soil, although they’re happy in most soil types except very chalky or poorly drained. They prefer full sun but will still crop in partial shade. The leaves and flowers are easily damaged by strong winds and late frosts, so choose a warm, sheltered planting spot. Medlar trees form a wide canopy, so position them at least 4.5m (15ft) from other trees or buildings.
Prepare your tree for planting by giving it a thorough watering if it’s in a pot or by standing it in a bucket of water for half an hour if it’s a bare-root tree. If planting in a lawn, remove a circle of grass at least 1m (3¼ft) in diameter, so the tree’s roots don’t have to compete with the grass for rainwater and nutrients while they get established. Medlar trees are easy to plant and should settle in quickly – you’ll find lots of advice in our easy planting guides below.
Staking
Plant Care
Medlar trees need little maintenance once well rooted in.
Watering
Water newly planted medlar trees regularly for the first growing season. Then keep watering young trees during dry spells for the next few years. Established trees should only need watering in long dry spells, especially when the fruits are forming.
Mulching
In late winter or early spring, spread a thick layer of mulch (such as garden compost or well-rotted manure) around the tree, to help hold moisture in the soil and suppress weeds. Leave a gap around the base of the trunk.
Feeding
To boost fruiting, you can feed in early spring, before mulching. Use a high potassium general fertiliser, such as Vitax Q4 or blood, fish and bonemeal. Scatter one handful per square metre/yard around trees growing in bare soil, and one and a half around those in grass.
Propagating
Medlars are not generally easy to propagate. Commercially, named varieties are usually grafted – by whip-grafting or T-budding – onto quince or hawthorn roots, to limit their size. These are skilled processes but can be fun to try.
It is also possible to grow medlars from seed, particularly the common medlar, Mespilus germanica, but they can be slow to germinate and grow. Seeds from named varieties may produce variable results – often larger trees with lower quality fruit than the parent plant.
Pruning and Training
Prune young medlar trees as you would apple and pear trees. The two main options are: a bush form, which is a tree with a clear trunk 75–90cm (2½–3ft) long and an open-centred canopy; a half-standard, with the longer trunk of 1.2–1.5m (4–5ft), which is well suited to medlars and complements their spreading habit. If you get your tree into a good shape early on, then only minimal pruning will be needed in future years. Aim to create an open-centred, goblet shape.
Established medlar trees can be pruned in winter if required. This usually just involves removing any congested, dead or damaged shoots to keep the canopy open, and shortening any overly long branches so they don’t droop. Medlars are tip-bearers, meaning they fruit on the ends of small side-shoots, so take care not to remove these. Also, as these trees are usually grafted, remove any suckers or shoots that sprout from below the graft point at the base of the trunk.
Harvesting
Harvest medlar fruit in late October or November, after they’ve been exposed to frost. They will still be unripe, hard and bitter, so not yet ready for eating. They will rarely ripen on the tree in the UK. Harvest in dry conditions when the stalk detaches easily from the tree.
Before eating or cooking medlar fruits, they must be ‘bletted’ or allowed to ripen in storage, to make them soft and sweet. During bletting, the starches turn to sugars, and the acids and tannins decrease – and while this improves the flavour, it also makes the fruits look offputtingly brown and rotten, which may explain why they’re no longer widely grown or harvested. But this process is not rotting, it is ripening – the fruits should be sweet, juicy and aromatic.
To blet your medlars, first briefly dip the stalks in a strong salt solution to prevent rotting. Then lay the fruits out on trays or straw in a cool, frost-free place, such as a garage. Make sure they aren’t touching and their stalks face upward. After two or three weeks, they will become soft, darker brown and slightly wrinkled. Check them regularly and use as soon as they’re suitably succulent, sweet and aromatic – the flesh should have the consistency and flavour of dark apple sauce, with hints of dates or apricots. The leathery skin is not edible, so just scoop out the soft flesh and remove the large seeds. Bletted medlars are traditionally used to make a fragrant, amber-coloured jelly to complement rich meats and game. They can also be used in sweet desserts, or even eaten uncooked, typically with cheese and port.
Problems
Medlar trees are very hardy, healthy and easy to grow. If cropping is poor, this could be due to late frosts or spring storms damaging the blossom and deterring pollinators. Lack of water can also cause young fruits to be shed.
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