How to grow cherries

There are two main types of cherry: sweet cherries (Prunus avium), which are delicious eaten fresh and best grown in a sunny position, and acid cherries (Prunus cerasus), which are excellent for cooking and grow well in sun or partial shade.

There are many varieties of each type, producing either red, black or yellow fruit, from mid- to late summer. Many modern varieties are self-fertile, while others need a ‘pollination partner’ (another cherry nearby that flowers at a similar time) to ensure a good crop – see our guide to fruit pollination. All acid cherries are self-fertile, so you only need one tree, but some sweet cherries aren’t, so check before buying – most fruit nurseries will be able to advise on a suitable partner variety. Even self-fertile trees usually produce a larger crop when there’s a compatible

The transfer of pollen grains from a male anther to a female stigma, either within the same flower or between two different flowers. It’s usually followed by fertilisation and seed production. Some flowers are pollinated by insects or other small creatures, others are wind pollinated. It’s also possible to pollinate flowers by hand, if you want to breed new plants or ensure successful pollination when there are few natural pollinators.

‘Morello’ is one of the most popular acid cherries, ideal for a partially shaded site

A native plant is one that originated or arrived naturally in a particular place without human involvement. In the British Isles, native plants are those that were here during the last ice age or have arrived unaided since.

native

Cherry tree sizes

Cherry trees sold commercially are usually grafted onto the roots (rootstock) of a different variety that controls the tree’s size and vigour. Ungrafted cherries grow into large trees that aren’t suitable for smaller gardens. The most popular cherry rootstocks are:

• ‘Gisela 5’ – semi-dwarfing rootstock, restricts trees to 3–4m (10–13ft) tall, so suitable for smaller gardens and containers; trees trained as fans will reach 1.8m (6ft) tall and 3.6m (12ft) wide
• ‘Colt’ – semi-vigorous rootstock, producing trees 6–8m (20–26ft) tall, or when
  A method of training and pruning fruit trees flat against a wall or fence, so they have a short trunk and multiple straight branches fanning outwards. Fruit is produced on short stubby side-branches (spurs). Both attractive and productive, this traditional growing method is suitable for apples, apricots, cherries, nectarines, peaches, pears and plums.

  fan trained 2.5m (8ft) tall and 5.5m (18ft) wide, so too large for most modern gardens. Acid cherry trees, which are less vigorous, reach 3–3.5m (10–12ft) on this rootstock

Where to plant

You can plant cherry trees either in an open site, such as a lawn, or trained against a wall or fence. Choose a warm, sheltered location that isn’t prone to late frosts, which can damage the blossom. A sheltered site will aid

The transfer of pollen grains from a male anther to a female stigma, either within the same flower or between two different flowers. It’s usually followed by fertilisation and seed production. Some flowers are pollinated by insects or other small creatures, others are wind pollinated. It’s also possible to pollinate flowers by hand, if you want to breed new plants or ensure successful pollination when there are few natural pollinators.

This describes how acid or alkaline soil is, and is expressed as a number between 0 and 14. Soil with a pH of 7 is neutral, an acid soil has a lower value, and an alkaline soil has a higher one. Most plants grow best in soil that’s within a specific pH range, so it’s useful to know your soil’s pH. Testing kits are easy to use and widely available in garden centres and online.

pH

Related RHS Guides

Positioning fruit treesDiscover your soil typeUnderstanding soil pH

How and when to plant

Cherry trees are easy to plant, and this is best done while they are dormant, between November and March.

These have been lifted from the ground while dormant, with little or no soil around their roots. Various plants may be available bare root, including fruit trees, hedging plants and some perennials. They are generally cheaper than plants in containers, but are only available in winter/early spring, while dormant

To grow well, plants need a wide range of nutrients in various amounts, depending on the individual plant and its stage of growth. The three key plant nutrients usually derived from soil are nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, while carbon, oxygen and hydrogen are absorbed from the air. Other vital soil nutrients include magnesium, calcium and sulphur. Most garden soils contain enough nutrients to promote healthy plant growth.

nutrients

Related RHS Guides

Planting trees: step by step

Planting in a container

Cherry trees crop best in the ground, but if you don’t have suitable soil or an available site, you can plant in a large container. Choose a tree on a semi-dwarfing rootstock (‘Gisela 5’ ) – acid cherries are naturally less vigorous, so are better suited to growing in pots. The container should be at least 45–50cm (18–20in) wide – terracotta pots or half-barrels are suitably heavy and stable. Use peat-free soil-based compost, or a peat-free multi-purpose

Can refer to either home-made garden compost or seed/potting compost: • Garden compost is a soil improver made from decomposed plant waste, usually in a compost bin or heap. It is added to soil to improve its fertility, structure and water-holding capacity. Seed or potting composts are used for growing seedlings or plants in containers - a wide range of commercially produced peat-free composts are available, made from a mix of various ingredients, such as loam, composted bark, coir and sand, although you can mix your own.

​Cherries are usually grown as small open-centred trees (known as bush trees), larger pyramid trees, or as fans trained flat against a wall or fence. All need regular pruning to keep them in good shape and fruiting well. Cherries are too vigorous to be trained as espaliers or cordons. If you’re new to pruning or need a refresher, check out our beginner’s guide to pruning.

Pruning should be carried out annually, as soon as harvesting is finished – usually in late July or August, when silver leaf disease and bacterial canker are less prevalent. However, light formative pruning of newly planted cherry trees can be done in spring – see our guide to initial pruning.

Annual pruning keeps cherry trees more compact, so they take up less space and the fruit is easier to pick and to protect from birds. Pruning also ensures there is a good balance of older fruiting wood and younger replacement branches. Acid cherries, for example, bear almost all their fruit on the previous year’s shoots, so if left unpruned the crop would be produced at the ends of overlong branches.

Cherries should be pruned in the same way as plums – see our guides below for details.

Cherry trees are usually vigorous and productive. However, poor growing conditions or certain diseases can sometimes cause problems. These include:

• Immature fruits being shed in early summer – this can be due to poor pollination or lack of water when fruits are developing. Correct pruning, and watering in dry spells, can reduce the problem – see our guide to cherry fruit drop

• Split fruit – too much rain or overwatering just as the fruit is ripening can cause the skin to split. Harvest before any heavy rain if possible 

• Die-back of branches and discoloured leaves – this can be caused by the fungal disease silver leaf (see below). To avoid infection, take care to prune in summer, after harvesting, when the spores are less widespread 

• Dead patches of bark and small holes in leaves – these can be signs of bacterial canker (see below), which may eventually result in branches or whole trees dying

Birds love cherries and can quickly devour the crop unless the tree is covered with netting or

A soft, fibrous, translucent material laid over or around plants hastening their growth and protecting them against weather and pests. Heavier grades of fleece give about 2°C of protection from frost. It is usually used without supporting hoops.