Our detailed growing guide will help you with each step in successfully growing Chicory.
Renowned for its distinctively bitter leaves, chicory comes in three main types – forcing chicory, where the young shoots are blanched in winter to produce small heads of pale, crisp leaves, and radicchio and sugarloaf varieties that can be harvested either as baby salad leaves or as large mature heads. Radicchio forms a colourful, rounded head of leaves by late summerChicory is easy to grow from seed, in a similar way to lettuces and endive, producing bitter, tangy leaves that are rather an acquired taste. The leaves can be made more palatable by blanching them (keeping them out of the light). This can be done by putting a bucket over the plant for a few weeks before harvesting, or it can happen naturally when the leaves in the centre of the head are covered by the outer ones. The three main types of chicory grown for eating are:
Forcing or Belgian chicory – grown for the crisp young leaf shoots, known as chicons, which are forced and blanched in winter to make them sweeter and less bitter. The most widely grown variety is ‘Witloof’
Radicchio or red chicory – forms a tight head of usually deep red leaves with contrasting white veins, so is an attractive addition to the veg plot and the plate. Blanching isn’t necessary, as the inner leaves are protected from light, reducing their bitterness. The flavour becomes milder when the leaves are roasted or grilled
Sugarloaf or non-forcing chicory – produces large, hearted heads of crisp, green leaves, resembling a tall Cos lettuce, for harvesting in autumn. The tight heads are self-blanching. As its name implies, it has a sweeter flavour than the other types
Radicchio and sugarloaf chicory can also be grown as cut-and-come-again leaves, harvested when young to add zing to mixed salads. They can be sown repeatedly in small batches for quick harvests almost all year round, if given protection in the colder months. With self-blanching chicory, the inner leaves are paler, more tender and less bitterIn addition to the culinary chicory varieties, you can also grow chicory (Cichorium intybus) as an ornamental plant, for its pretty blue flowers, which are popular with bees and other pollinators. It has edible but very bitter dandelion-like leaves. The roots have traditionally been used to make a coffee substitute.
Sugarloaf chicory has a sweeter flavour and resembles a large Cos lettuceThere are many varieties of each type of chicory (detailed above), providing a choice of flavours, leaf sizes, shapes and colours. The red-leaved radicchio types in particular make an attractive crop on veg plots and in containers, or even in flower borders, as well as adding a splash of colour to meals. When choosing chicory varieties, look in particular for those with an RHS Award of Garden Merit (AGM), which shows they performed well in trials, so should crop reliably – see our list of AGM fruit and veg and our Recommended Varieties below. You can see many salad crops, such as chicory, growing in the veg plots at the RHS gardens, so do visit to see how they are grown, compare varieties and pick up useful tips.
Chicory seeds are widely sold in garden centres and by online seed suppliers. Young plants may also be available in late spring from similar sources.
Chicory prefers an open, sunny site but will tolerate some shade in summer, so can be grown between taller crops. Prepare the soil ahead of sowing or planting by removing weeds and digging in plenty of garden compost or well-rotted manure. Ideally do this a few weeks before sowing or planting, to allow the ground to settle. Alternatively, if you're practising no-dig, mulch the soil ahead of sowing or planting directly into the mulch.
You can also grow chicory in a container at least 30cm (1ft) wide, filled with peat-free multi-purpose compost.
Related RHS GuidesOrganic matterNo-dig gardeningGrowing vegetables in containers
Avoid the temptation to sow chicory too early outdoors – cold spells can cause plants to bolt, producing flowers rather than leaves. Chicory for forcing can be sown outdoors in May and June. Sow non-forcing chicory indoors in April and May, and outdoors in June and July. For picking as cut-and-come-again salad leaves, sow non-forcing varieties outdoors in spring and summer, or in a greenhouse in late winter for early harvests and in late summer/early autumn for winter harvests. Sow non-forcing chicory seeds indoors for quick and easy baby salad leaves
Sow chicory seeds in small pots, seed trays or modular trays filled with moist, peat-free seed compost, then keep in a warm, bright location, such as on a windowsill or in a heated propagator. Seedlings should appear in only a few days. Sowing indoors allows you to get a head start when conditions outside are still too cold, especially when growing chicory as baby salad leaves. It also keeps plants out of reach of slugs and snails until they’re larger and more robust. For more sowing tips, see our guides below.
Once the seedlings have several leaves, carefully move them into individual modules/pots – see our video guide to pricking out. Then plant them outside once they’re growing strongly and the weather is warm enough – see Planting, below.
Related RHS GuidesSowing seeds indoors – step by stepUsing peat-free compost for seed sowing
Sow seeds thinly into prepared ground (see above), 1cm (½in) deep in rows 30cm (12in) apart. Take care to protect seedlings from slugs and snails. Thin out the seedlings as they grow, until forcing varieties are 15cm (6in) apart, non-forcing 30cm (1ft) apart, and those grown for baby salad leaves just 5cm (2in) apart. Chicory can also be sown in large containers (at least 30cm/1ft wide) filled with peat-free multi-purpose compost, then thinned out to the spacings above. Related RHS GuidesSowing veg outdoorsSow outdoors – step by stepSow a container of baby salad
Space raddichio types at least 30cm (1ft) apart, to allow room for the rounded head to formYoung chicory plants – grown from seed indoors or recently bought – can be planted outside from late May or early June, depending on the weather conditions. Delay planting if it’s still cold, as low temperatures can lead to bolting and a poor crop. Harden off the plants carefully, to gradually acclimatise them to outdoor conditions.
Plant into prepared ground (see above) and water the plants thoroughly before and after planting. Space forcing varieties 15cm (6in) apart, non-forcing varieties 30cm (1ft) apart, and plants for baby salad leaves 5cm (2in) apart. Protect them from slugs and snails, especially in damp weather. For harvesting in winter as cut-and-come-again salad leaves, you can plant non-forcing chicory (sown in late summer) in a greenhouse in autumn, either in a large container or a greenhouse border. See our video guide below.
Chicory is fast growing and relatively low maintenance, but do keep it well watered in summer. With forcing types, start the forcing process in late autumn, to produce crisp, blanched chicons through winter and early spring.
Water chicory thoroughly during dry weather to deter bolting (when plants produce flowers at the expense of leaves). Lack of water can also make the leaves more bitter in flavour.
Apply a thick layer of mulch, such as garden compost or well-rotted manure, around chicory plants once they are growing well, to help hold moisture in the soil and suppress weeds.
Related RHS GuidesMulches and mulchingHow to mulchOrganic matter
Chicory doesn’t generally require feeding, but if you grow it in a container, apply a general-purpose liquid feed fortnightly through summer.
Plant dormant crowns of forcing chicory in a large container in late autumnVarieties of forcing chicory, such as ‘Witloof’, are grown for their small heads of young leaves, which are traditionally blanched so they develop a sweeter flavour. These are known as chicons and are a prized seasonal delicacy. They are produced by potting up dormant roots indoors in late autumn or winter, then blanching the resulting new leaves, in a similar way to forcing rhubarb.
Dig up forcing chicory plants in November, discarding any that are less than 2.5cm (1in) across at the crown. Cut back all the leaves to 2.5cm (1in) above the crown
Pack the roots horizontally in sand in a cool shed until required
Force a few roots at a time by planting vertically in a large pot of moist peat-free multi-purpose compost, leaving the crown exposed at the surface – about five should fit in a 25cm (10in) pot
Cover the pot with black polythene (such as an old compost sack) or an upturned bucket or large pot with the drainage holes covered, and keep at 10–15°C (50–59°F). A cluster of pale yellow leaves (a chicon) will sprout from the crown
Once the chicon is 15cm (6in) tall, harvest by cutting it at the base. If you leave the stump in place and cover the pot again, a second smaller chicon may form
Radicchio and sugarloaf chicory don’t usually need blanching (they are described as ‘self-blanching’), since the outer leaves of the head naturally blanch the inner ones. It’s the inner leaves that you eat, as they develop a less bitter flavour. However, you can aid the process by tying the outer leaves of near-mature heads loosely together with twine. Alternatively, you can cover the head with a bucket to exclude light.
Blanching usually takes a couple of weeks, but in cooler autumn weather it may take longer – when ready, the leaves should be pale and tender. The process is similar to blanching endive, a close relative of chicory. During blanching, check regularly for slugs and snails.
Forced chicons can be harvested in about four weeks, to enjoy raw or cookedThis type of chicory forms a small leafy head, or chicon, when potted up indoors in autumn or winter and grown without light (see Forcing and blanching above). Harvest the chicons when 15cm (6in) tall, after about four weeks of blanching. The leaves are pale and crisp, with a bitter-sweet flavour. They can be eaten raw as salad leaves or cooked (especially roasted or grilled) for a more mellow flavour.
Radicchio and sugarloaf chicory form lettuce-like heads that are ready to harvest from late summer to mid-autumn. After cutting, leave the stump and it may re-sprout to provide a second, smaller head. Harvest before the first frosts or protect with cloches or plastic-free fleece. In the kitchen, discard the outer leaves, as they are usually tough and bitter. The blanched inner leaves have a sweeter tangy flavour, but if left exposed to light after harvesting, they will soon turn green and more bitter. Radicchio often develops its rich red colouring from late summer onwards, as the days shorten and temperatures fall. Raw or cooked, it adds a splash of colour to many dishes and is widely used in Italian cuisine. When roasted or grilled, its flavour becomes milder. Sugarloaf chicory has a naturally sweeter flavour, but still with a bitter tang. Use it raw in salads or lightly cooked. Chicory can also be harvested as baby salad leaves, especially sugarloaf varieties. The leaves grow quickly and take up little space, and you can start harvesting on a cut-and-come-again basis just a month or two after sowing. If sown regularly, you can have pickings for most of the year.
Protect chicory seedlings and plants from slugs and snails, and when forcing or blanching, check under the covering for them regularly too, as well as for any signs of rotting. Chicory also tends to bolt (start to flower and stop producing leaves) in hot or dry weather, so don’t let plants go short of water. Early sowings outdoors, when temperatures are still too low, can also lead to bolting. If plants do bolt, they produce attractive blue flowers and often self-seed, giving you a new generation of plants for free. For more on these and other issues, see Common problems, below. Related RHS GuidesControlling problems without chemicalsPreventing problems
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