Most plants can be grown from seed using a variety of methods. Remember though that many will not ‘come true’, that is demonstrate the characteristics of the plant you collected them from.

See our page on seed collection and storage.

Seed sowing - indoors

Some seeds require a warm and protected environment to germinate or you may want to get a head start for the

The period of time when an individual plant is in active growth. This will depend on the local climate and light levels, and can vary between different plants, although it is broadly from spring to autumn.

See our page on how to sow seeds indoors.

Seed sowing - outside

If you do not have a greenhouse or are short of window sills, you can sow outside once the soil has warmed up. You will save space this way and in fact some plants prefer direct sowing.

See our page on how to sow seeds outdoors. 

Seeds of trees and shrubs

Tree and shrub species sometimes have specific

Germination is the process by which a seed develops into a new plant. It starts with the seed coat absorbing water, expanding and splitting, which allows oxygen and water into the seed so its food reserves can be broken down and used by the embryo for growth. The first root (called the radicle) pushes into the soil to anchor the new plant in place and start absorbing water and nutrients. The first shoot (called the plumule) then grows upwards, out of the soil, towards the light.

See our page on trees and shrubs from seed.

Vegetative propagation is useful for increasing stock of named cultivars which don’t come true from seed. Use these methods to produce

A clone is a genetically identical copy of a plant, produced by asexual or vegetative reproduction. Clones have the same genetic makeup as the parent plant.

Hardwood cuttings

Suitable for many

Deciduous refers to plants (mainly trees and shrubs) that lose their leaves seasonally, usually during autumn. This is a natural process triggered by the season's shorter days and lower temperatures and allows plants to conserve energy during the winter months.

A method of growing new plants from parts of an existing plant, such as sections of root, stem, leaf or bud. When prepared correctly and planted in the right conditions, they can produce roots and eventually become independent plants. There is a wide range of different methods for taking cuttings, depending on the plant and time of year.

cuttings

Dormancy refers to a period of inactivity in plants, during which they slow down or stop their growth, conserving energy and resources. This is a natural process that helps them survive harsh conditions, such as winter or drought. Dormancy in seeds is a mechanism that prevents them germinating until environmental conditions are favourable for growth.

dormant

See our page on hardwood cuttings;

Softwood cuttings

Suitable for a wide range of mainly deciduous shrubs, trees and hardy or tender perennials. Take

Softwood cuttings are taken from spring to early summer (Apr-Jun), using material from the soft and flexible young shoot tips from this seasons growth, which root readily. Use for hardy and tender perennials, deciduous shrubs, climbers and some trees.

See our page on softwood cuttings.

Greenwood cuttings

Suitable for berry fruits, Ceanothus, Forsythia and Philadelphus. They are similar to softwood cuttings but the base of the stem is firmer. Prepare as softwood cuttings, but make them slightly longer, generally 7.5-12.5cm (3-5in) long. Take later in spring through to mid-summer.

See our page on softwood cuttings.

Semi-ripe cuttings

Many plants are propagated using this method. The cutting base is quite firm, whilst the tip is relatively soft. Take

Semi ripe cuttings are taken from summer to mid-autumn (Jul-Sep) from healthy stems grown this season. The base of the cutting is firm, while the tip is still soft. Use for climbers, herbs, evergreen shrubs, conifers and hedging plants.

See our page on semi-ripe cuttings.

Heel cuttings

This method is useful for woody plants that have pithy stems, such as Sambucus (elder), or old plants in less than peak condition. It is not very effective on broad-leaved trees.

Pull away a cutting-sized shoot from the main stem, to retain a small tail of bark, or heel, at the base. The heel contains high levels of growth ‘hormones’ (auxins) that help promote rooting.

Root cuttings

Some plants have thick fleshy roots, which make great cutting material. Lift plants during the dormant season.

See our page on root cuttings.

Leaf cuttings

Some plants can be propagated from a whole or a part of a leaf. It is an easy way to increase numbers of our favourite indoor plants.

See our page on leaf cuttings

Presenter, writer and gardener Ellen Mary, shows you how to propagate your houseplants by taking whole-leaf cuttings.

Layering

For producing one or two new plants, simple layering is aeffective for many shrubs. In autumn or spring (evergreens are better in spring) select supple shoots on the outside of the plant for pegging down.

See our page on layering.

Air layering

Use air layering for plants with brittle wood that won’t bend for tradition layering or where there are no low growing shoots.

See our page on air layering.

Grafting

A method that combines material from one plant with prized flowering or fruiting qualities with the roots of another that offers vigour and resilience. This is a difficult task and requires lots of skill and practice. In most cases, trees and shrubs are available to buy ready-grafted onto a rootstock. Most tree fruits and roses are grafted.

See our page on grafting.

Division

Many herbaceous plants are propagated by division – the separation of one plant into several self-supporting ones.
Split clumps into sections, each with at least one shoot and a root system of their own. Carry out in spring or autumn depending on the preference of the plant and overwintering conditions.

See our page on dividing perennials.

Micropropagation

The culture of plant cells within sterile laboratory conditions using high tech equipment to produce clonal copies of plants.

See our page on micropropagation.

Bulb propagation

Cuttings from the stems and leaves of

These are fleshy, rounded, underground storage organs, usually sold and planted while dormant. Examples include daffodils, tulips, hyacinths, lilies, onions and garlic. The term is often used to cover other underground storage organs, including corms, tubers and rhizomes.

See our page on bulb propagation.

Collecting material

Before collecting any plant material for

A method of growing new plants from parts of an existing plant, such as sections of root, stem, leaf or bud. When prepared correctly and planted in the right conditions, they can produce roots and eventually become independent plants. There is a wide range of different methods for taking cuttings, depending on the plant and time of year.

• Use clean tools and equipment during propagation (including surfaces). High standards of hygiene are important for success
• Collect material early in the day when full of water (turgid) to avoid wilting. Ideally remember to water the plant the day before
• Do not select pest-or disease-damaged material
• Remove material with a sharp pair of secateurs, placing cutting material into clean plastic bags with a label
• Once collected place cutting material in a fridge if it is not to be prepared immediately. Add a splash of water to keep slightly moist

Compost/growing media

There is a selection of ready-made cutting composts commercially available. They are free-draining using materials such as composted bark, sand, coir and perlite. This helps prevent rotting in humid propagation environments and provides air spaces creating a healthy growing environment for new roots. They are also low in

To grow well, plants need a wide range of nutrients in various amounts, depending on the individual plant and its stage of growth. The three key plant nutrients usually derived from soil are nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, while carbon, oxygen and hydrogen are absorbed from the air. Other vital soil nutrients include magnesium, calcium and sulphur. Most garden soils contain enough nutrients to promote healthy plant growth.

Wounding

Not all plants root easily from the methods above and some tricky plants such as Ilex, Camellia and Rhododendron, require wounding to encourage root production. It is thought that wounding creates a root promoting stimulus, perhaps of a chemical nature.

Prepare your cutting then remove a thin slice of

Bark is the outermost layer of woody plants (trees, shrubs and woody climbers). It is several cells thick and provides protection against physical damage, disease and environmental stresses. Bark comes in a wide variety of colours and patterns, and these can help gardeners when identifying plants. The fissures and crevices of bark on older plants also creates valuable habitat for many garden creatures as well as lichens and small plants.

Rooting environment

Once the cuttings are in their pots and ready to grow, get them off to a good start by proving the ideal growing conditions.

• Place in good light, avoid scorching direct sunlight. Diffuse bright light with a layer of fleece
• Keep undercover in a
  A propagator is a portable, lightweight structure usually plastic, with a vented or unvented lid to provide a humid, slightly warmer atmosphere. It is useful to help seeds germinate and root cuttings. It may have adjustable, thermostatic temperature control.

  propagator or greenhouse with bottom heat, to keep the cuttings warm and humid
• A pot with a plastic bag over the top kept somewhere light and warm will also suffice
• Vent cutting daily, by lifting the lid or plastic bag. This prevents cuttings from getting overly wet and stagnant, reducing fungal disease risk
• Watering will vary between species, as a rule keep moist in summer and only water once the
  Can refer to either home-made garden compost or seed/potting compost: • Garden compost is a soil improver made from decomposed plant waste, usually in a compost bin or heap. It is added to soil to improve its fertility, structure and water-holding capacity. Seed or potting composts are used for growing seedlings or plants in containers - a wide range of commercially produced peat-free composts are available, made from a mix of various ingredients, such as loam, composted bark, coir and sand, although you can mix your own.

  compost is dry in winter
• Remove dead and diseased cuttings to reduce further contamination
• Pot on cuttings once they show signs of strong active growth from roots and new shoots

Hardening off and aftercare

Once the cuttings have been potted on they will need hardening off before they can be moved out into the garden. This is done by gradually acclimatizing them to outdoor conditions for 2-3 weeks. It should not be rushed, as natural waxes coating the leaves must undergo changes in form and thickness to reduce water loss and toughen to withstand the wind.

Refrain from overly watering newly potted plants, as their new roots are vulnerable to rotting before fully establish within the pot.

Young

A method of growing new plants from parts of an existing plant, such as sections of root, stem, leaf or bud. When prepared correctly and planted in the right conditions, they can produce roots and eventually become independent plants. There is a wide range of different methods for taking cuttings, depending on the plant and time of year.

A seedling is a young plant grown from seed.

seedlings

Pests such as aphids can stunt and deform growth and fungus gnats (sciarid flies) can feed on the base of seedlings and cuttings. Check regularly to prevent infestations.