Positioning
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In winter, position moth orchids in bright light to encourage flowering. An east- or west-facing windowsill is ideal. You could also consider using artificial lighting.
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In summer, keep them out of direct sun, as it can scorch the leaves.
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Moth orchids like consistently warm conditions all year round – 19–30°C (66–86°F) during the day and 16–19°C (61–66°F) at night.
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Keep plants away from radiators and heaters, and out of draughts, as they dislike fluctuating temperatures.
Also see our guide to growing orchids indoors.
Watering
Correct watering is vital to ensure moth orchids stay healthy. If kept too wet, the roots are likely to rot, but if kept too dry, the roots may shrivel and die.
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Water moth orchids weekly throughout the growing season, but reduce watering slightly in winter.
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Never let the roots dry out completely and never let plants sit in water. Always let excess water drain away.
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Ideally use tepid water, preferably rainwater.
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When watering, take care not to splash the leaves or get water into the crown, although you can mist the plant lightly in summer to increase humidity.
Feeding
To encourage strong growth and flowering, feed lightly but regularly during the The period of time when an individual plant is in active growth. This will depend on the local climate and light levels, and can vary between different plants, although it is broadly from spring to autumn.
growing season using a specific orchid fertiliser.
However, regular feeding every time you water can lead to a build-up of potentially harmful salts in the compost. To flush these out, water without feeding every fourth watering.
Feed only sparingly, if at all, during the winter months.
When using fertiliser, take care to follow the manufacturer's instructions, as overfeeding can be damaging rather than beneficial. See our guide to using fertilisers.
Encourage flowering
If the plant is large and healthy but hasn't flowered for a while, move it to a cooler spot, reducing the temperature by about 5°C (8°F) for a month or so. It should then send up a new flower stem.
To stimulate repeat-flowering, cut back the old stalk after all its blooms have fallen to just above the second This is a point on a stem where new growth sprouts, usually leaves, buds, side-shoots or roots. The section of stem between two nodes is an internode. When taking nodal stem cuttings, you trim them just below a node at the base, as this is where new roots will sprout. With a few plants, especially climbers such as clematis and honeysuckle, stem cuttings produce roots from the internode, so are known as internodal cuttings.
node (joint) beneath the spent flowers. A new flowering side-shoot will often form.
Also see our guide to keeping indoor orchids flowering.
Deadheading
If the faded blooms don't fall by themselves, pick them off to keep the plant looking its best.
After all the flowers on a stem have fallen, cut it off just above a healthy node (joint) lower down the stem, to encourage a new flowering side-shoot to sprout from that node.
Re-potting
Moth orchids can be re-potted at any time of year, as long as the roots are active and have green tips. Re-potting is only necessary once a plant has become too large for its container or has been in the same Can refer to either home-made garden compost or seed/potting compost: • Garden compost is a soil improver made from decomposed plant waste, usually in a compost bin or heap. It is added to soil to improve its fertility, structure and water-holding capacity. Seed or potting composts are used for growing seedlings or plants in containers - a wide range of commercially produced peat-free composts are available, made from a mix of various ingredients, such as loam, composted bark, coir and sand, although you can mix your own.
compost for two years:
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Choose a transparent container. This allows you to see if the compost is still moist below the surface, so you know when to water. Damp compost is darker than dry compost. Some roots can also photosynthesise, so a clear container helps with this.
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Always use specially formulated bark-based orchid compost. Never use loam-based or multipurpose compost, as these will kill moth orchids.
Re-potting is straightforward:
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Remove the orchid from its container and pull out all the old Bark is the outermost layer of woody plants (trees, shrubs and woody climbers). It is several cells thick and provides protection against physical damage, disease and environmental stresses. Bark comes in a wide variety of colours and patterns, and these can help gardeners when identifying plants. The fissures and crevices of bark on older plants also creates valuable habitat for many garden creatures as well as lichens and small plants.
bark compost from among its roots, untangling them gently if necessary.
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Snip off any unhealthy or dead roots – these may be brown, shrivelled, mushy or hollow.
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Shorten the remaining healthy roots back to about 12cm (5in). Healthy roots are plump, firm and silvery-white.
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If the roots now fit comfortably into the old container, then re-use it. Be careful not to overpot into too large a container – if there is lots of excess compost, it will stay wet for too long, causing the roots to rot.
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Hold the plant in the container at the level it was previously growing, and fill in the spaces around the roots with fresh orchid compost. Gently firm it in as you go, especially around the edges. If done correctly, when you pick up the plant by its stem, the container and compost should come with it and not fall away. Loose compost will cause the plant to be unstable and may damage the new root tips, stopping them from growing.
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Don’t bury any roots that are growing out into the air, as these may rot if covered with compost.
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If the plant is unstable or lopsided, you may need to add a small A cane is a slender, straight, length of woody plant material, usually bamboo. Canes are primarily used as plant supports. The fruiting stems of blackberries, raspberries and hybrid berries (such as loganberries and tayberries) are also known as canes, so these crops are often referred to as cane fruit.
cane or two to provide support until the roots have established in the new container.
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Finally, give the plant a thorough watering, ensuring the whole The roots and accompanying soil when a plant is removed from a container or lifted from the ground.
rootball is moistened. Let the water drain straight out and don't leave the plant sitting in water.
Caring for older plants
Moth orchids are easy to look after and can continue growing – and flowering regularly – for many years with minimal maintenance. Just keep them warm, in good light, water regularly and re-pot every couple of years. Occasionally wipe the leaves with a damp cloth to remove any dust.
Moth orchids often form roots above the compost that look like they're trying to clamber out of their container. These are nothing to worry about and you shouldn't try to bury them. Moth orchids are epiphytes, which means they naturally grow on other plants, usually on tree branches. In the wild, these 'aerial' roots help them cling to their perch and absorb To grow well, plants need a wide range of nutrients in various amounts, depending on the individual plant and its stage of growth. The three key plant nutrients usually derived from soil are nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, while carbon, oxygen and hydrogen are absorbed from the air. Other vital soil nutrients include magnesium, calcium and sulphur. Most garden soils contain enough nutrients to promote healthy plant growth.
nutrients and moisture from their surroundings.