How to grow blueberries

There are many blueberry varieties to choose from, fruiting at slightly different times between early and late summer, or producing plants that grow to different sizes, from about 50cm (20in) up to 2m (6½ft). Less vigorous, compact varieties, such as ‘Bluetta’ and ‘Sunshine Blue’ are best for containers and small gardens. Also look for varieties with an RHS Award of Garden Merit (AGM), which shows they performed well in trials.

Most blueberries are partly or fully self-pollinating, so you only need one plant to produce a crop. However, cross-pollinated plants tend to produce larger harvests, so if you have room, plant two or preferably three different varieties. 

Blueberries must be grown in acid (or ericaceous) soil or ericaceous potting compost, with a pH of 4.5–5.5. Test your soil’s pH to make sure it’s suitable – kits are available online and in garden centres. If your soil is only slightly acidic, you can lower the pH by adding sulphur chips, ideally the previous summer or autumn.

If you have alkaline soil or heavy clay, grow blueberries in large containers or raised beds (15–20cm/6–8in high) filled with ericaceous soil or ericaceous potting compost.

Improve your soil before planting by digging in lots of bulky, acidic organic matter, such as pine needles, leafmould, composted conifer bark or bracken. Avoid well-rotted farmyard manure or mushroom compost, which are too alkaline for blueberries.

Blueberries can be planted in the ground (in acid soil) and in containers of ericaceous compost. They will settle in best if planted while dormant, between autumn and spring, although they can be planted at any time of year, except in hot, dry weather or into frozen ground. Choose a sheltered planting site in sun or light shade, with well-drained but moisture-retentive soil that doesn’t dry out in summer or get waterlogged in winter. A sunny spot should give you a better crop and good autumn leaf colour.

Pruning is rarely needed in the first two years after planting – just remove any crossing or unwanted branches if necessary.

After that, prune at any time from November to March, but ideally in late February or early March when the fruit buds can easily be distinguished from leaf buds. Fat buds produce flowers and fruit, while smaller, flatter buds form shoots and leaves – aim to retain branches with lots of fruit buds.

A mature blueberry bush should comprise about one-third old stems, one-third middle-aged stems and one-third young stems. 

When pruning, remove: 

• Dead, diseased, damaged, weak or rubbing stems, plus any that are touching the ground 

• Twiggy growth at the ends of the branches that fruited last year, cutting back to a low, strong, upward-facing bud or branch. This encourages side-branching 

• Up to a quarter of the oldest and thickest stems, making your cuts at the base of a mature plant or just above a younger strong shoot lower down on the branch. This encourages plants to send up new stems from the base, to keep them productive 

• Any new stems produced in the previous summer that have failed to ripen and have died back to leave hollow wood and dead tips. This often happens in colder parts of northern England and in Scotland. Cut back affected shoots to healthy wood, 15cm (6in) from the base

Blueberries are generally healthy and trouble-free, as long as they’re grown in suitably acidic soil or ericaceous potting compost, and kept well watered throughout the growing season. They need protection in very cold spells in winter, especially when grown in containers, and from frosts while in flower in spring. Make sure the fruits are protected from birds too, with netting or a fruit cage.